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MOLISE

>> Download the Italian-Wine-Tasters-Trip-2006.pdf
(Tour 5 - 9 May )
>> Download the Italian-Wine-Tasters-Trip-2005.pdf
(Tour 30 September - 3 October )

“WHO and WHERE”

The identity card of the Region
   

Birth: 27 Dicember 1963
Inhabitants: 330.000
Estension: 4.500 kmq
Sea: 35 km on the costaline
Ski-track: more than 50 km
Hotels: about 200 with 10.000 beds
Districts: Campobasso and Isernia
Towns: 136
Confining Regions: Abruzzo,Lazio, Puglia, Campania
Rivers: Volturno, Trigno, Biferno, Fortore, Sangro, Tammaro

Lakes: Guardialfiera, Castel San Vincenzo, Occhito
Mountains: Matese, Mainarde
Forests: Riserva MAB of Montedimezzo, Collemeluccio, Bosco del Barone, Monte Caruso, Monte Gallo, Monte Capraro, Pennataro, San Martino, Pesche.
WWF Oasis: Guardiaregia, Le Mortine
National Park: Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise.

Viaggio nei luoghi

CAMPOBASSO
Campobasso dates back to the middle period of Lombard reign (VII AD). The name Campobasso, “Campus bassus” intended as a campus known to be “bassus” with regard to higher areas, etymologically refers to the position of the habitat respect to the Castle which dominates it.
In the historical centre you can visit the Church of San Leonardo. It is at the food of a flight of steps which lead to the Monforte Castle. The facade is of Gothic-Roman style and the interior presents a single trussed roof nave where a baptismal font of the XIV century is to be found.
Step by step you are led to the Church of San Bartolomeo. It is prior to the XIII century. The main door is framed by a lunette divided into two sections: the first one represents the Saviour while blessing others, as per Greek tradition; the second section is subdivided into eight trapezoid units with the symbols of the four evangelists represented in the centre. Opposite the church is the Tower of Terzano. In ancient times, it was used as a lookout tower and interrupts the perimetral wall of the Castle.
Further along the pathway you will find the Church of San Giorgio, the town’s patron saint. The Church was built upon the ruins of an ancient pagan temple and dates back to the X century. A plain facade the lunette reproposes the motif of the cross-bearing lamb, externally decorated with leaves and grape shoots. The last part of the road which leads to the Monforte manor is without steps. Two rows of pine trees which from “Via della Rimembranza” accompany visitors as they walk by. Each tree carries the name of a soldier who died in the First World War.
The Monforte Castle was built in 1459 AD. The profile is accentuated and the very same dark grey colour of the limestone gives it a decisive fort like rather than a refined manor. Once you reach the main terrace, you can admire a splendid panorama.

We will stay the first day

 

LARINO

Situated in the uplands at 400 a.s.l., Larino is immerged in a hilly area full of olive trees which enrich the surrounding countryside. It is presumed to have its origins in the 12th century BC and was an important Roman “Municipium” (as confirmed Cicero in his oration “Pro Claudio”, dated 66 BC) as well as having been an “Urbs Princeps Frentanorum”.
The most important archaeological remains are from the roman period. These ruins include the aphiteatre, which is the synthesis and the emblem of the entire history of the town.
It is situated in a depression, which was previously used as a necropolis as evidence by the tombs that were found there and which were traced back to the IX-VIII BC. The amphitheatre was presumably build between 70 and 150 AD and represents the most spectacular evidence of period when Larino was an important Roman city.
The road system of ancient Larino had to be modifield w hen the amphitheatre was built. The amphitheatre was dug into tufa bank to a depth of over six meters from the road level.
The amphitheatre has an elliptic plan with four main entrance placed at the extremities of the two axes while twelve secondary doorways (called “vomitoria”) gave access to the tiers.
Finally, in the Middle Ages the amphitheatre are was again used for burials and recently some Medieval tombs have revealed some interesting objects.
In the historical centre you can see the Cathedral inaugurated on the 31st July 1319.

We will stay the second day

 

TERMOLI
Presently the largest and most important seaside resort in Molise, Termoli consists of a newer part, all along the coastline and in the hinterland, and of an ancient borough, called "Borgo Vecchio" up on a rocky promontory. It was more a place of immigration than emigration, passing from 5000 inhabitants in the early 20th century to the present 30,000. This growth is explained with its key position along the Adriatic Sea, with the flourishing tourist developments and a number of successful small and middle-sized industries. For centuries mainly a fishing port, in the 1950's a Fiat automobile factory started a very rapid industrial development, and there is also a university for Tourism.
Archeological excavations that brought to life an italic necropolis in the areas called Porticone and Difesa Grande, next to the Sinarca river, showed that the area was inhabited since very early times, and it seems, from the study of Roman historians, that here rose the center called Interamnia, meaning in Latin between streams, namely the Biferno and the Sinarca rivers. Another etymology derives the name from "thermae", which suggests there might have been Roman spas in the area, which however have not been found so far. With the fall of the Roman empire then most probably the population took refuge on the promontory where today the old Termoli rises, and in Lombard times was included in the Duchy of Benevento, and later on in that of Spoleto. In the early 13th century the feudal lord was Duke Bartolomeo di Capua, followed by the son of king Robert of Anjou. In the 15th century the fiefdom passed to Carlo di Gambatesa, who was followed by the Di Capua-D'Altavilla family, who kept the title until 1806. For centuries Termoli often attacked by Saracens pirates and by the Venetians.
In the historical centre you can visit the Cathedral of San Basso, 13th century, containing the relics of San Basso, bishop of Nice, who was a martyr, according to the tradition, in Provence, on 5 December 250 AD. The saint's relics were brought to Termoli probably around the 10th century AD, and buried under the church, then somehow the place of the burial was lost for centuries, until in 1761 during restoration works the ancient marble urn was found again. The cathedral hosts also the relics of St. Timoteo, the disciple of St. Paul, that were probably brought to the Cathedral of Termoli at the time of the Crusades.
After you can see the massive Swabian Castle, 12th century, that from its privileged position controlled the Adriatic and hosted a military garrison to protect the population from the attacks of Saracen pirates and Venetian merchants.

We will stay the second day

 

AGNONE

Agnone is considered “the Athens of the Sannio”.
Pretty town in a wonderful position on a hill to the left of the Verrino river, surrounded by green woods. There are remains of a pre-Roman settlement (walls below the hill). In the Middle Ages it was a flourishing crafstwork center, renowned especially for bell-making, the Fonderia Pontificia Marinelli made bronze bells to be shipped all over Europe. Also goldsmiths and watch makers were especially renowned. Among its many feudal Lords were the Di Capua, Colonna, Gonzaga, D'Aquino and Caracciolo families. Especially lively is the "Carnevale Agnonese" and on Christmas Eve the beautiful parade of the "n'docce", wooden torches made in the nine different quarters ("borgate") accompanied by the sound of bagpipes, to the Piazza Plebiscito where a brotherhood bonfire is lit.

We will stay the third day

 

SEPINUM
The archaeological ruins of the town are found on the level ground opposite the hill on which the present-day town is situated. Whilst escaping from the advance of the Romans, the Samnites established a camp at the beginning of the III century BC, which later gave life to a new city. In the I century BC the “municipium” of Saepinum was established with high walls and a communication trench. The walls were sent out in a rectangle and were equipped with tight system of circular and polygonal towers.
There were four gates (Porta Boiano, Porta Benevento, Porta Tammaro and Porta Terravecchia) of which Porta Boiano, the western gate, is in the best condition. In the immediate vicinity of the walls next to this gate, one finds one of the thermae – public baths (of which there were at least three), which were typical of the town. Although they have not yet been completely uncovered some of the typical rooms of this thermal structure can be identified, along with the technical devices that were necessary to ensure the supply of water to the baths at various temperatures. The thermae, the forum with the Augustan Basilica, the macellum, the houses and the fountains are situated along one of the two main road axes. The hollow of the theatre, which is situated in the northern sector of the town, is more secluded. Today the site, which has been only recently discovered, is surrounded by farmhouses.
Further away one finds the Mausoleums of Numisio Ligure and Ennio Marso.

We will stay the third day


Viaggio nei sapori
THE CHEESE
By the start of the millenium, the farming industry had left its mark on the historical, cultural and social structure of Italy by shaping the distribution and mineral and botanical composition of the land.
Ancient tribes such as the Samnite Tribe which lived in Italy around 300 BC organised its social, economic and military structure around milk farming.
Until the beginning of the 1900s the system of nurturing animals was more in line with the physical and climatic characteristics of the land and was therefore transient, or linked to the movement of animals to new pastures and away from adverse seasonal weather conditions (the cold and snowy mountains in winter and the hot and dry plains in summer).
Walking the sheep paths the herds (with the shepherds and dogs following behind) plowed the land, woods and meadows of Molise in search of pasture and sources of water, abundant and fresh and took their herds from the mountains to the plains and back.
Still today, Molise offers the purest and most natural milk which makes for the production of a large variety of milk and traditional and wholesome dairy products.

Caciocavallo
This cheese, typically in the shape of a pear, is produced throughout the year using the best milk from two species of cow. It is so-called as once formed, the caciocavallo are bound as a pair with cord and hung over a stake to mature.
Of peculiar quality are caciocavallo from Agnone di Capracotta and Vastogirardi, extracted from the milk of local animals and produced in only in those regions. Renowned also are caciocavallo made in Matese, Frosolone, Campobasso and Sant'Elia a Pianisi.
The paste which at the start is is a clear colour with a delicate consistency, buttery and lacking definition, ripens and becomes a fuller pale yellow colour with splits both on the surface and underneath. The sweet and delicate taste it had at the start becomes more spicy and strong.
Some shepherds, linked to an ancient dairy tradition continue still today to smoke caciocavallo over a dampened fire of straw and thorns. Many were in the habit of conserving a caciocavallo in the kitchen or other damp place to allow mould to give the caciocavallo a more tender skin and make it more creamy.
Caciocavallo is eaten at festivals with home-made bread or roasted over coals and accompanied by the best red wine or rosé.

 

THE OLIVE OIL
The olive tree has forever been the symbol not only of glory and triumph of the great Mediterranean civilisation but also of peace and humility for the world.
In Molise, the olive, ever present and cultivated in a good proportion of the lower regions, the hills and in the more sunny coastal areas of the internal valleys, assumes an economic importance in the venafrana basin and in the first hills of the adriatic hinterland which, since historical times has been the ideal location to grow olives and its product, olive oil has reached an advanced level of production and refinement and is the pride and prestige of our local populations.
The olive groves, in specialised cultures and spread in groups and rows from seeds or cuttings, according to deep-rooted custom- like vineyards and fruit trees, have, since time began, characterised and harmonised our culinary landscape, rendering it amenable and healthy for visitors and abundant and profitable for agriculture.
Today the olive cultivation in Molise still remains linked to the best traditions of the past and is a fertile activity practiced with modern techniques and with great attachment and devotion to the product and which maintains the quality and geunuineness of the oil and safeguards the envirmonment of the region and promotes gastro-tourism.

Olive Oil
Quoted and celebrated by many classic authors (Cicerone, Orazio, Varrone, Plinio to name but a few) the olive oil produced in the traditional towns of Molise (in the districts of Venafro and Larino) had considerable reputation and prestige in the past. The discovery of jugs and pots while excavating Roman villas, in the districts of Larinese and other sites, tells us that the production, processing and commercialisation of local olive oil production has been happening for thousands of years.
The system and the phases of collection and manufacture are particularly important to ensure that a high quality product is obtained.
The legal classification of olive oil is divided into three types:
· Extra virgin olive oil: obtained from the first squeezing of the olives
· Olive oil: a mixture of refined and unrefined oil (and for this reason less expensive)
· Residual Olive oil: extracted from the remaining olive cores and pulp produced by the first press.
Using extra virgin olive oil has many health and dietary benefits. Freshly produced it has a pleasant aroma, a sweet taste with hint of almond that can be detected on the tip of the tongue. With time it assumes more body and clarity and becomes more delicate to taste.
The overall quality of olive oil is influenced not only by the varieties of olives but also by the method of collecting the olives which is still done by hand in some areas. The transporting and strorage of the olives, preservation and treatment before pressing also play their part.
Molise, while being a small region has a great variations in climate and terrain which confers on the olives and therefore the oil produced a vast spectrum of smells, tastes and colours.
Moving from the sea towards the internal hills it is possible to appreciate the varieties of oil which range from the sweet to the fruity and from a golden glow to a range of green tones.

 

THE WINE
Grapes and honey have been used by the peoples that occupied our land since ancient times.
Some stumps of the vitis vinifera silvestris vine, discovered in the recent past at different sites in Molise (including one found on Mount Cimone, in Quarto di Miranda (Isernia) at 1150 m above sea level), testify to the adaptability of the wild vines even in the mountainous regions and territories once inhabited by our ancestors, the Samnites.
In all probability, the ancient people of Italy learnt the art of cultivating vines and making wine (and other drinks) from the Greeks and Etruscans.
However, it was only after the Roman conquest of Sannio that the mass cultivation of more vast terrains began, which involved the removal of wooded areas and the turning over and reclaiming of land in order to grow grapevines.
Becoming progressively more refined, intense cultivation occurred along the valleys adjacent to the Volturno, Trigno and Biferno rivers, the plains of Larino, the neighboring plateaus of Campobasso, Carpinone and Trivento and on the warm coasts of Agnone and Poggio Sannite as well as on the sunny pastures of the Matese, in Boiano and Sepino.
The discovery of footsteps on a press in Pozzilli, some tanks and local winemaking equipment in Santa Maria di Canneto and Villa San Fabriano (Roccavivara), in the tenements of Larino and San Giacomo degli Schiavoni, as well as charred grape seeds and pitchers for the transportation of the wine in the archeological site of Mattonelle (San Martino in Pensilis), together prove that the cultivation of the vines and commercialization of wine has taken place for thousands of years.
After a long period of decline, around 1000 AD, the vines reappeared, holding favour with the Christian culture at the time. They were found first in the cloisters and in the abbeys, then in the “possession” of the master and, later in the middle ages, on land granted to farmers.
With the end of feudalism (1806) came access to free land, above all to those who had previously worked for the rural bourgeoisie. The cultivation of vines extended to a good part of the general population of Molise, and indeed the province of the Molise was judged - amongst those northern regions- to produce the finest wine in the then Kingdom of Naples.
In the second half of the nineteenth century the wine industry fell into a deep and long productive crisis due to the spread of two vine diseases (oidio and peronospora), aggravated in the 1920s by another root disease (fillossera). The reconstruction of the vineyards restored the production to the previous levels only at the end of the 1940s.
The affirmation of the modern winegrowing industry benefits from the permeation of irrigation systems and has therefore left the hills and shifted to areas along the Adriatic. Today the wine-producing sector represents an important facet of the small regional economy of Molise.

At present Molisian wines fall into the following classifications:
· table wines;
· wines with a Typical Geographic Indication (IGT);
· wines with a verified origin (DOC)
Table wines are the common wines obtained from authorized grapes and produced without further regulation.
DOC and IGT wines must comply with particular standards of production and transformation . At present those that marked DOC are the Biferno, produced in the areas along the adriatic and in the hills of Campobasso and the Molise which is produced in the wine-growing zones throughout the region. The first is obtained from the red and pink grapes from Montepulciano, Thresh and Aglianico vines. Bianco da Trebbiano, Bombino and Malvasia are made from white grapes . The second is made only from the grapes which consist of at least 85% of the following varieties: Aglinico, Cabernet sauvignon, Chardonnay, Falanghina, Greco bianoc, Montepulciano, Moscato bianco, Pinot bianco, Sangiovese, Sauvignon, Trebbiano and Tintilia.
IGT wines include Osco or Terra degli Osci and Rotae. Osco or Terra degli Osci is produced in the wine-growing areas of Campobasso and Rotae in the province of Isernia. These red, white and rosè wines are made from grapes growing in vineyards containing grapes of one or more of the vines recommended and/or authorized in the Molise region.

 

THE MUSHROOMS AND TRUFFLES
Behind the Appenine mountains of Italy's central south the land is particularly suitable for the growth of mushrooms and truffles (tartufi). These areas, hills and mountains are characterised by different soils, altitudes and varying degrees of exposure and, as a consequence, are subject to different climactic and micro-climatic conditions. It is these specific conditions which determine the distribution and diversity of the various species of mushrooms and truffles in Molise.
Mushrooms develop easily in an environment containing humid and rich fertile soil, often growing symbiotically with other species of plants. Such association, a particular kind of "biological exchange", occurs between tree roots and funghi and takes on fundamental importance for the survival of each. The species of tree and the soil content together determine the nature and volume of funghi that may be found in their roots.
A large part of the internal regions of Molise are covered with woods and bush which has always been rich in valuable species of funghi such as porcini, gallucci and ovoli notwithstanding other less valuable species such as trombette dei morti, mazze di tamburo, lattaroli, famigliole, etc.
The mushrooms are collected in the Matesine mountans and in other mountainous and hilly localities of central Molise of which the province of Campobasso and the territories of Campolieto, Cercemaggiore, Guardiaregia, Putrella Tifernina, Riccia, Tufera, Triveneto and Roccavivara are of particular note for their abbundance and diversity, as well as the communities of San Pietro Avellana, Carovilli, Mirando, Pescolanciano, Agnone and Pietrabbondante in Isernia.
Production is linked to favourable seasonal and climactic trends. Although truffles have been known about for centuries, they were "rediscovered" in our region only recently thanks to truffle hunters from other regions.
In the middle ages, truffles were considered noxious and undigestible and were rejected by the people and instead fed to wild animals and black pigs for grazing.
Today Molise, especially those central and higher areas, is, among the richest regions of Italy in terms of the production, abundance and quality of truffles although the natural processes by which our soil creates them are as yet unexplained.

The local population has always, especially in Autumn, collected and used various types of funghi to prepare soup, roasts or to dress and accompany special dishes.
Porcini is best suited to tagliatell, risotto or to accompany meat; galletti and ovoli lend themselves beautifully to soups or as an accompaniment to a main course. Mazze di tamburo (it must always be remembered that only a certain part may be used as the rest is poisonous) and other types can be prepared in many ways (roasted, fried or used in minestrone) to enrich and flavour the Molisian dinner table.
Out of the many varieties of truffles the white truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico) stands out as being unique. With its exceptional flesh and delicate aroma it is the most sought after truffle.
In Molise, especially in recent times, truffles were produced in large quantities because of their high commercial value. All the areas in which truffles were found were plundered by hunters from all over Italy, putting their future production in serious danger.
The white truffle gives a refined touch and feel on all dishes to which it is added. Its thin fleshy strips melt and mix with the dishes adding a delicate fragrance and taste.
The summer black truffle or scorzone (Tuber Aestivum Vitt.), plentiful in almost all of Molise and less expensive than the white, gives off a weak aroma of mushroom and is used above all to create delicate and sought after creamy sauces. Its use and importance in Italian cookery is continuing to increase.
Other types of tartufi, which include the banchetto, the marzuolo and the ordinary black, are present in reasonable quantities in our region and , because of their low quality are considered to be of little commercial and culinary importance.

 

>> Download the Italian-Wine-Tasters-Trip-2006.pdf
(Tour 5 - 9 May )
>> Download the Italian-Wine-Tasters-Trip-2005.pdf
(Tour 30 September - 3 October )



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